Grazing Train at the Ferry Building

The Ferry Building Farmer’s Market in San Francisco happens in miniature form every Thursday (the big one is on Saturday). Since we had done just about every other kind of eating adventure during our vacation in the big city, we actually had a day off from an official dining reservation and decided to visit the market and graze our way through its offerings. With no itinerary other than to pick what peaked our palate, we headed down there on a muni bus with stomachs ready for exploration.

Our first stop was 4505 Meats, which was the whole reason we had come in the first place. We had heard that their burger and dog were out of sight.

Yes, both dishes were better than your average fast food fare and the stand in itself offered a nice selection of steaks, chops and sausages on ice but it was nothing to garner hundreds of impossibly-fluffy sounding yelp reviews about. But it had, which we couldn’t quite understand. The hamburger bun was dark and studded with sesame seeds and came swimming with a yummy cheese sauce. The bacon, which was touted as studding the hot dog, was nowhere to be seen.

Next up was Chef Chris Cosentino’s meat emporium, Boccalone. There’s something pretty special about a place with all variations of salami, hanging dry skinned in a cooler right in front of your face with an old fashioned cutting machine as bright red and shiny as a historic fire engine.

But even more special is the “salumi cone” – a teaser piece of paper funnel that comes lain with three kinds of salami to peel right off the sides with your fingers and savor. Ours had mortadella, lonza and fennel and brown sugar salami.

Of course, my favorite stop was the forty-five minute belly up to the bar we enjoyed at Hog Island’s oyster outpost here. I had one of the best oyster experiences of my life at the real Hog Island headquarters and was happy to see that even though this time we were not shucking them ourselves by a cold, rainy bay, the quality was still scrumptious. I also gained a whole new appreciation for shuckers and their forearms as the entire time we sat there a solitary man pounded through dozens and dozens of oysters all for us patrons’ eating pleasures. A glass of sauvignon blanc to wash down the 6 varieties of the sea gem and we were off.

I was delighted to see the presence of Cowgirl Creamery as well with a small counter serving up cheesy items like an oozing gruyere-type grilled cheese sandwich that we shared accompanied by fresh pickled vegetables and onions. Not worth the 8-dollar price tag but an elevated version of the comfort food classic for sure.

At Recchiuti Chocolate we bought an affordable four pack of a new chocolate to try. For $18 we received a 1-pound load of bars including bittersweet, semisweet, dark and dark milk that we enjoyed later at bedtime. Always on the hunt for good pieces of dark chocolate, we were pleasantly surprised by the mellow depth of the dark milk variety that sent us well on our way to sweet dreams after a wonderful experience on the grazing train.

Hog Island Oyster Odyssey

Photographs by Robert Birnbach

“People come to this area with a specific mission if they don’t live here,” says my driver as we twist and turn up the damp coast of Marin County in Northern California. “They are either here to cycle these amazing green hills, drop in to a secret ex-hippie’s musical performance like the one Van Morrison threw in 2006 at Rancho Nicasio, or they come for the oysters. It’s mostly the oysters.”

Our mission? A car full of oyster freaks on the hunt for fresh kumamotos accompanied by acclaimed 30-year old Chef Aaron Kiefer, who promises to deliver us an on-the-spot, gonzo-style meal created from whatever ingredients we can find along the way, reflecting the region’s signature foods.

The region we are headed towards is Tomales Bay at the tip of the Point Reyes Seashore about an hour North of San Francisco—the high energy city where we’ve been engaged in long days of cookbook photography for classical creations and sophisticated meals that have left us longing for something more grassroots and simple, a true da-da inspired meal in an uncomplicated setting. 

The entire area is home to oyster farms where you can stop along the way and enjoy whatever oyster experience you crave from barbecued, down home to-go style to fancy, sit down restaurant and Rockefeller style. Our destination is Hog Island, where we hear you can picnic by the bay, hand shuck your own pleasures and eat them raw or cooked on your own private grill. 

Our first stop is at Cowgirl Creamery in a converted barn in Point Reyes Station, a small town among the rolling hills dotted with cows, sheep and goat, where we sample some of their signature, artisanal aged cheeses. Devil’s Gulch, crafted from rich Jersey cow milk, is soft and creamy, within a rind dusted with the dried rust-colored flakes from a red pepper field nearby. Mt. Tam, a few notches firmer than brie, melts on the tongue—an organic milk triple cream. Red Hawk, with its sunset colored rind tinted from a brine wash, delivers a full-bodied flavor; and the butter colored Wagon Wheel, the company’s “everyday” cheese, provides a juxtaposition of toothy bite with mild sweetness. Aaron chooses two of the Cowgirl cheeses along with two artisanal cheeses—an Italian Roccolo and Spanish Patacabra—which are bland enough to go well as a starter with the meal he has planned in his head.

“This is how everyone should eat,” says Aaron, adding a long, slim baguette to our loot for the day. “Whatever’s fresh and whatever’s available.” Our visit to the local grocery store yields multiple herb bundles and fennel.

We arrive at Hog Island Oyster Company where we have reserved a table and grill. It’s a cold, grey day with streaks of sun threatening to emerge from a dense strata of clouds—perfect for bundled jackets, rich foods and the smoke streams dotting the lawn, emanating from charcoal and communal outdoor breathing. All around us, groups of people are hovered together over sizzling meats and various types of oyster condiments. The sounds of wine corks popping, laughter, and the occasional joyous child’s shriek consistently puncture the air.

We learn that Hog Island co-owner John Finger is a Marine biologist whose commitment to creating oysters that retain the flavors and nuances of the bay from which they are produced also entails a passion for preserving the water’s cleanliness and environmental safety.

Chef Aaron, a man of few words with a no-nonsense cooking mien, gets right to work. At the outdoor oyster bar, a long basin filled with four varieties upon twinkling, diamond sharp piles of ice, he orders up several dozen oysters and netting full of clams. Back at the table, he fires up the grill.

Mindy Reed, owner of Zin American Bistro in Palm Springs, California, uncorks the white wines for our cheese plate, chosen for their ability to maintain a neutral palate as canvas for the strong and creamy cheeses, mini gherkins, garlic stuffed mushrooms, and dried figs that provide a hearty appetizer to the oysters that Chef Aaron will prepare simply and swiftly in conjunction with the stark environment, salty bay scents, and crisp winds off the dark waters. Aaron begins to hand shuck the small kumamotos, lining them up on a strip of wet wood accompanied by a quickly mixed mignonette of red wine vinegar, diced shallots and Meyer lemon juice. The small nuggets of meat are perfectly sweet and creamy, spiked with fresh, watery brine.

Once smoking hot, Aaron slaps on four strips of applewood smoked bacon to the grill next to a cobalt blue colander that holds two dozen clams, orange slices, and large broken fennel chunks. He douses white wine atop the pile every few minutes to create a steamer, clouds of fragrance wafting into the ethers. The bacon comes off and is replaced by the large variety, thin and watery oysters, which sit on the grill like little canoes, only long enough to receive a sprinkle of chopped bacon, shaved fennel and chive, a dash of vinegar and the ultimate exclamation point of a fresh, cracked quail egg. Leaving no time for the egg or oyster to overcook, the shells are quickly handed out to guests for the pleasure of one long slurp.

Next up are the clams, spiked with the fragrance of wine and with a subtle peppery zing, hand picked from the bowl, and devoured readily by the group.

A moment’s reflection follows the swift meal as we digest amongst the natural environs. Beyond the picnic area, egrets and herons walk like old men, their angular joints tip-toeing across the rocky shoals, respecting our distance as we communally watch each other, mutually sated on the fruits of the sea. Their screeches remain in our ears on the road back to the City, reminding us to visit again soon, the place where the oyster experience comes authentic and alive with fresh air. 

Hog Island Oysters

Producing 3 millions Kumamoto, Atlantic and Pacific oysters and Manila clams annually.

102 miles north of Pt. Reyes Station
20215 Coast Hwy One

Marshall, Ca. 94940

415-663-9218

Cowgirl Creamery
80 Fourth Street
Point Reyes Station, CA 94956
Phone (415) 663-9335
Fax (415) 663-5418
Wednesday through Sunday, 10am - 6pm
Friday morning tours at 11:30am and 3:00pm on select summer days.

RECIPES

Oysters With Quail Egg

1 dozen Hog Island Oysters, Opened and Muscle Cut
4 oz. applewood smoked bacon, grilled and chopped

1 dozen quail eggs

½ cup raw fennel

1 tablespoon sliced chives

Lemon

Olive oil

Salt

Pepper
Sprinkle all ingredients on top of the fresh-shucked oyster halves before the final step of cracking a quail egg on top. Oysters can be made cold or thrown on grill for few minutes for slight warmth but do not cook. Serve immediately.

Steamed Clams
2 dozen Hog Island manila clams, raw

1 whole fennel, broken into chunks

1 whole shallot, sliced

6 cups white wine

1 head garlic, smashed

4 Tbs. butter, cubed

Place all ingredients except for the wine and butter, into a porous container (like a colander) directly onto a hot grill. During the cooking process, drizzle with wine to create steam. As clams begin to open, toss in bowl with remaining wine and butter. Serve immediately!

CHEESE PLATE

Roccolo Cheese slices

Patacabra Cheese, slices

Devil’s Gulch Cheese, wedges

Inverness Cheese, wedges

Dried figs

Garlic Stuffed Mushrooms

Gherkins

Grapes

WINE LIST

Courtesy of Mindy Reed, Owner of Zin American Bistro, Palm Springs, CA

Vouvray Domaine Pichot
France 2008

Argiolas Costamolino
Vermentino di Sardegna 2008

Naiades

Rueda, Spain 2006

Burgans Albarino

Rias Baixas, Spain 2008