Saturday, August 18, 2012

Roller Coaster Ride at Bouchon (And I Don't Mean Thomas Keller's)



It took us a long time to figure out where we would eat out for dinner on a recent trip to Santa Barbara as the city isn’t exactly known for its cuisine. After many referrals and Yelp reviews later, we decided against the multitude of tepidly written up Italian and Mexican restaurants and settled on the self-admitted "wine country cuisine" downtown spot Bouchon.

What followed was a very strange roller coaster ride of highs and lows that left has left me a little confused as to whether I really like the place or not.

DOWN

We arrived to a house with plenty of open tables and Open Table is exactly the service the Cute Gardener used to book our reservation so imagine our chagrin when we were seated in the most unseemly place in the middle of the packed dining room in the back where all the wait staff were constantly walking behind and hitting our chairs with their hips, thighs and legs. And it was warm enough in the room to make us sweat.

UP

Part of the reason it was warm was our proximity to the kitchen, which I could see the top halves of the five chefs within as they bustled around cooking. I love to watch the dance of sizzling foods and always admire restaurants that let us glimpse the magic with transparency. Back home in Venice Beach, I walk by Ado on afternoons right as the cooks are busy prepping for the evenings and I always peek in and they know me by now so I get waves and smiles. This makes me giddy.

DOWN

The tart that I had seen online on their menu was non-existent on this one.

UP

A scallop trio was on the menu and it had to be shared because the scallops were so plump and huge. There were three versions: an appetizer kin that resembled caprese with a stack of tomato, cold smoked scallop, and bacon. The scallop was dynamite with a texture like a cold beautiful cube of butter and sweet on the tongue but it was a bit strange with its counterpart ingredients. The middle version was an entrée kin on top of a dense and perfectly crispy potato pancake that punched with flavor. The corn and basil sauces that accompanied were dreamy and I sopped the remainder of it up with a chunk from the ample breadbasket. The last was a dessert kin on top of vanilla risotto that was delicious but a little watery. I could have eaten one of these alone as my meal and am still thinking about that cold, smoked scallop slice in variety one.

DOWN

As we realized that we needed the salt and pepper that was put on the tables to season the third scallop version (a no no to have to season anything from the kitchen), they delivered someone else’s soup spoon to us by mistake.


 UP

The CG asked for rare venison and it was purple as if its heart were still beating. It was my first time trying venison, which tasted to me like the forest trees and all I could do was think of Bambi while watching the slabs of thick meat ooze with blood. (Yes, I realize this is an extremely hypocritical inner conflict as I am as happy a carnivore as anyone else who believes that animal flesh is part of the master food chain.) Still not sure how I feel about that but the CG was happy as a kid in a pond made out of cherry Icee.



DOWN

My duck was really soft and tender but the fat wasn’t rendered at all. Luckily, for some weird reason, it wasn’t gross congealed fat, just strangely outlining the meat fat, and the meat ended up tasting like turkey rather than duck.

UP

They had a variety of fun wines so we opted for wines to pair with our dishes rather than a bottle. Every time our waiter brought us our wine, he would pour us a taste, even though we were only ordering a glass. At one point, we were even offered a sample of another wine we didn’t order by the gracious waiter who was jibing on our picks.

So all in all there were some pleasantly unexpected crests that I didn’t expect and then some serious nose-diving troughs that were just as surprising and together they cancel each other out so that I am still stuck in a state of neutrality towards the whole experience. 

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