Fish tacos are one of my favorite foods and the best are, unarguably, the kind I can buy for one buck on the side of the road in San Felipe that come just plain and served with the special white sauce and nothing else on a miniscule corn tortilla disk spiked with a squeeze of lime. Almost every time I go to a seafood or Mexican restaurant this is my item of choice even though most American joints screw them up with way too much slaw and foliage and condiments a la sour cream and guacamole. Recently, I ran into the fish taco at the Ace Hotel in Palm Springs. The menu at Ace's King's Highway Restaurant is full of comfort foods changed for the uber-hip denizens of the trendy and grassroots indie resort so I was a bit skeptical when I saw this item offered. True to my skepticism, the tacos arrived wrapped in the looks of the tragically cool, a sliver of grilled fish no bigger than the size of my pinkie finger, served plain with that special white sauce on a teeny tortilla. But there were three on the plate and I was satisfied with that even though the bulimia-clad waif at the other table only touched one of hers. I will definitely order this dish again, although next time it will probably follow the blood salami adorned charcuterie plate as well for a starter.
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