I love Pasadena for nostalgic reasons. It reminds me of all the glamorous
things Southern California used to stand for like a sunny manifest destiny,
ranches and fruit groves, old school men who were half cowboy and half
business, and sprawling and romantic architecture full of articulated details
like porcelain colored molding and stamped interior roofs. It still glimmers
beneath its modern exteriors of a time when craftsmanship reigned in the city
that has my second favorite bridge in the state. Today that historical beauty
remains in its parks, gardens and legendary estates and is spruced up once a
year for the traditional Rose Parade and Bowl game.
We had stumbled upon Neapolis while coming home
from a trip to the desert a few weeks ago. Hungry and tired of traffic in the
rain, we hopped off the freeway to grab a pizza after dark. We found a rather
dreary and doughy pie but then adventured into the small plates portion of the
menu where we were pleasantly surprised.
A dish of Sicilian meatballs came with four tiny
gems of super-densely packed, but with a meticulously fine gritted, pork that
was seasoned in a subtle pink tanginess that verged on savory but with a dose
of pickle. It tasted like a totally reconstructed and elevated corn beef with a
new identity. The kale salad was simple and beautifully dressed with leaves how
I long for them – not too hard but not too wilted, teetering right in the
center about to submit to their fate on the palate.
We were so excited, we noted that we would have
to come back again and skip the pizza and pasta that dominated the offerings
and continue to veer off into the starters and sides because clearly that was
the chef’s gift. Even though we
rarely visit a restaurant twice, and NEVER go to breakfast at a joint, we ended
up back there a mere week later for post-Christmas brunch with the Cute
Gardener’s folks.
It was actually kind of nice and homey to
revisit the restaurant in daylight after driving past the makings of the Rose
Bowl parade throughout the city. Bleachers and porta-potties were cropping up
all along the route and banners with the grand festival logo were strategically
draping the city. As we drove down the streets we even gave halfhearted little
Miss America waves to the empty seats that would be crammed full in a few days.
It seemed apropos to enter the morning-gleaming
restaurant, draped with Stanford banners, and looking classy in the damp, crisp
winter air. We got a better chance to see the grandiosity of the three dining
rooms dressed in old times where red acrylic meat machines glistened on
counters near deli cases strewn with freshly made charcuterie, bar tops were
stacked with polished glasses for the day, and a television played sports in
black and white. Mirrored tiles dusted with gold flecks lined the cozy and deep
upholstered benches and even the bathrooms boasted floor to ceiling wooden
doors for private quarters – a classy joint.
The Cute Gardner who rarely finds a breakfast
entrée that can compete with the basic eggs he makes at home finally found his
dish. A gorgeous pile of golden polenta came bearing two beautifully plump and
pillow-y poached eggs (even if they weren’t exactly runny inside) alongside two
savory rafts of fried pork belly and little piles of sautéed mushrooms. A
deeply satisfying and earthy dish for a cold day.
I, the mother of all who cannot resist risotto,
ordered the arancini balls, which were crunchy on the outside and swimming with
gooey cheese on the inside. The rice was cooked perfectly and studded with
tender, flavorful cubes of butternut squash. I could barely eat two of the full
four-piece order because they were so rich and delicious.
I also ordered the Brussels sprouts, which was more like a dolled-up
fruit salad. Crunchy, diced Brussels sprouts halved shared equal space with
nutmeg spiced apples, cranberries, walnuts and daubs of goat cheese. I am going to copy this
one at home.
I was happy I had chosen to venture further into
the small plates, which is definitely where the chef shines best. Like the Rose
Parade itself, it seems that a great breakfast out of the house is something
special that tends to come around only once a year.