I have never been a
cloyingly sweet or fatty girl when it comes to desserts. My favorite treats
tend to be laden with sophisticated bitter chocolates in ganache type
applications or very subtle flourless chocolate cakes and simple white cream
cakes. Too much sugar, too much candied crystallization or the thick, syrupy,
dense butter fluffed or overly fruited world of pies and custards tend to leave
me with stomach aches rather than tongue orgasms. To me, butter doesn’t belong
lost in a thick shortbread type hard and crunchy dough or a boring base crust
but rather sopped and saturated into a stack of phyllo that oozes when bit into
like in the case of baklava.
When it comes to
cakes, there are certain types that drive me crazy with desire. They are
typically made by hand by some old-fashioned grandmother and frosted thick with
basic butter cream over a light lemon, Dutch cocoa or authentic vanilla base. Or, they are
nouveau versions with a texture perfect for soaking in ice cream or milk with
genuine whipped cream frostings that are light as air and milky flavored.
A few months ago at a
fancy dinner in a Benedict Canyon home resided over by a famous chef, I was
served the most delectable piece of cake for dessert after a fatty foie gras
and red meat meal. It was the most pristine and beautiful white cake that
crumbled at the touch, curled up into chewy coarse crumbs in the mouth that
soaked up the wine beautifully and was covered in the lightest pure whipped
cream frosting studded with moist and ripe blueberries, raspberries and
strawberries.
It was love at first
bite and I learned the cake came from the famous Burbank bakery Portos. So this
past weekend the Cute Gardener drove us there to experience the heavenly
emporium of bread and sweet stuffs in person. The place was so packed to the
gills and smelled so good and even though you had to stand in line behind the
throngs of people before getting up to the deli counter to pick your passion,
it all went relatively fast and the smell was enough to keep you waiting. The
deli cases were so packed that it was kind of overwhelming and hard to choose
what you wanted.
When it came time for
me, I blurted out and pointed to a mini pina colada mousse cake with a beautiful
violet flower on top, a guava and cheese strudel Danish and a Florentine
cookie. The CG ordered a fluffy roulade of chocolate and vanilla cake with
raspberry filling and a starchy and rich Napoleon slab topped with caramel. We
also bought a loaf of Cuban bread to go with dinner and a small egg pretzel
twist.
Over two nights our
lovely loot was enjoyed alongside a tasting of three different kinds of rum.
The weirdest part was
the price. All of this bounty for only $12.50?!?! It's as if Portos is still charging the same prices as when they opened in 1960! If there were one of these in my neighborhoods it
would be a HUGELY dangerous thing. I am definitely coming back any chance I can
with a long list of things in my head still to try. Oh, and I discovered
that my all time favorite cake has a name: it’s called the Milk and Berry Cake
and it's on Portos’ roster of classics, in case any of my lovely readers would
ever wish to order me one and surprise me for any old reason whatsoever. It’s
definitely what I will be eating for my birthday, and any other occasion when a
cake is needed to come!